thepinkginpassportA guide on what to do on your first, but likely not last, trip in one of South America’s favourite cities.
Where to stay
The best neighbourhood to stay in is Palermo. This beautiful neighbourhood felt very safe, beautiful murals and lots of coffee shops and boutiques. I stayed in Casa Caravan which might be one of the best hostels I’ve stayed at, it was beautifully decorated and genuinely felt like you were staying at a (albeit well off) friend’s house.
If you’re looking for a more party vibe then you can’t go wrong with Viajero which is based just off San Telmo another neighbourhood which is more touristy so higher petty crime but closer to some must see spots.
Where to eat
The main things you want to eat are 1) Steak 2) Choripan and 3) Alfajores.
Don Julio
Any parilla in Buenos Aires will be an amazing experience, but if you’re looking to treat yourself Don Julio won’t disappoint. Free champagne and empanadas while you wait for your table, I couldn’t fault the service. I also got a wine cellar tour before being shown to my table. It would be better to go with someone, but if I have to eat a ribeye steak to myself then it’s just a first world problem this solo traveller has to face.. I ordered the rib eye steak, salad and glass of Malbec. With my bill they also gave me a dulche leech chocolate dessert so while I paid £80 (GBP) for everything I got in this meal (that could have fed two people) I didn’t think this was bad at all for what has previously been voted the best steak restaurant in the world.
Chori
Chori is a local chain and there was one in Palermo I visited late one evening after my flight back from Ushuaia. The chorizo sandwich was so delicious as well as affordable it may even have been my favourite meal of my trip.
Alfajores
Dulce leche sandwiched between two cookies- so decadent and delicious I actually had mine as part of a Mate experience that I highly recommend. You can’t experience Mate in a cafe or restaurant as Argentinians always carry their own so the workshop is well worth it.
What to do
Tango
We asked our guide at the mate experience where to see authenticate tango being danced in the street to which he relied “in the 1950s”. To see tango you do have to see one of the official shows but this didn’t feel like a tourist trap at all and I really enjoyed the evening at El Viejo Almacen
San Telmo Market
This historical market is even better on a Sunday but not an area to stay around at nighttime. I had a great coffee and pastry but there are a number of restaurants a bit like borough market in London.
La Boca
I didn’t have time to get to La Boca but if you do go you need to take an Uber to and from as the area between La Boca and San Telmo is not safe to walk through. While La Boca is known for it’s colourful buildings as I was staying in the colourful street art covered Palermo I don’t feel like I missed out.
Teatro Colon
If you want a tour or to see a show at the opera house be sure to pre book.
El Ateneo Splendid
This beautiful theatre turned book shop is a must see for book lovers out there.
Buy a football shirt
There are a number of reputable stores to buy an official Argentina football shirt, I had a great experience at Nine Area Sports round the corner from Teatro Colon.
