The Pink Gin Passport

Guides, itineraries and travel tips for female solo travellers.

girl standing in front of temple

Backpacker’s ultimate guide to Mexico

If you’re backpacking Central America then Mexico has to be on your itinerary. This ultimate guide will explain where to go what to do (importantly what to eat) as a backpacker in Mexico.

Where to go in Mexico?

Firstly, Mexico is a huge country. You can spend months in this country alone. I only had just over a week so stuck to the East Coast. Many backpackers travel through Mexico City to the West for Oaxaca and Puerto Escondido. I would recommend spending as long as you can as I didn’t realise before arriving the amount of departure and arrival tax you need to pay for Mexico. The places I visited were:

  • Bacalar
  • Tulum
  • Holbox
  • Cancun

In that order, as I travelled from land from Belize. Most backpacker’s fly in or out from Cancun as it offers the most flights and therefore the cheapest flights to and from Europe.

A guide to Bacalar

Bacalar should be top of your itinerary. Not yet over touristy, this is an absolute gem. You can travel by land or boat from Caye Caulker fairly easily (there will be lots of other travellers taking the same route).

This is where I had the best food in Mexico- tacos, burritos, enchiladas and churros were all amazing.

The biggest draw to this town is the freshwater lagoon also known as the lagoon of 7 colours. It’s truly beautiful, includes cenotes and sand banks. I booked my tour through the hostel (The Yak Lake House) and totally recommend.

girl in water smiling at camera
Enjoying the clear lake waters in Bacalar

I also recommend the Yak Lake House Hostel, it’s right on the lagoon so you can take a dip when you want and has an infamous neon party on Wednesdays. As always I booked through Booking.com.

For food, try Mr Tacos, Mi Burrito, Los de Atlixco and for brunch there’s no better place than Albahaca Breakfast. This is a local neighbourhood restaurant and totally worth the short 20 minute walk from the main part of town.

pancakes and maple syrup on wooden table with twinkle lights in background
Best brunch in Mexico (Albahaca)

A guide to Tulum

Along with Bacalar this was one of my favourite parts of Mexico. I stayed between Tulum Town and the beach at Mayan Monkey which is without doubt the best hostel I have ever stayed at. Beautiful rooms and common areas, great free activities including art classes and good location for the price. Although I was sick and couldn’t get down to the beach, I loved being close to Tulum town. I loved the techno music, and bohemian market vibe. The food was also delicious at the hostel, the pastor street food tacos and Amore Burrito (try the pork and pineapple).

tuna dish on plate with background of palm trees and swimming pool
delicious tuna sashimi in stunning Mayan Monkey Tulum

Also a great opportunity to try tequila and buy some to take home. Already a big tequila fan I was blown away with how smooth and drinkable Mexico tequila is- so much better than what we have back in the UK.

While Mexican food is amazing, my second favourite cuisine (Italian) is often a craving after travelling for 2 months. Casa Sofia (few doors down from the hostel) was amazing. It’s run by Italians the pasta is so fresh and even comes with fresh bread while you’re waiting.

A guide to Holbox

Holbox didn’t meet my expectations due to extreme flooding which was a shame as I can see how it would be a great island to go to when the weather is right. I stayed at Che Hostels who were great (but wouldn’t get food there as that wasn’t so good). In fact I didn’t have any great food on the island but unsure if this was due to the flooding as a few days before I’d arrived they had no power for 4 days.

If I had more time I would have walked to Playa Mosquito sandbank (check local tide times) where early int he morning you can see flamingos. There is also a lake round the island where there is bioluminescent plankton which I’d seen in Colombia so wasn’t too disappointed I’d missed out.

As it was so hard to get round the island due to the flooding I’m glad I’d stayed at Che’s as the activities were great. Morning yoga on the rooftop (which has a great view of the whole island) and sunset walks with dogs from the local shelter was fantastic. Although our dog Merida (you walk them in pairs) who only had one eye didn’t want to walk and wanted to lay on the beach (can’t blame her to be fair).

girl walking dog at sunset
Sunset walks with Merida

A guide to Cancun

I had a really good time in Cancun which surprised me as so many backpacker’s had told me it is the worst part of Mexico. This goes to show you shouldn’t take people’s word for a place and judge it yourself. The beach was stunning- powdery sand and so blue. The thumping music from Coco Bongos wasn’t ideal but I’d imagine if you were on holiday with a group of friends for a few days it would be fun.

white sand and blue waves
cancun beach

I stayed at Mayan Monkey again which although wasn’t as nice as Tulum it was still great, had a number of activities such as sunrise beach yoga, salsa classes and even has a resident crocodile (roguest flex I’ve ever seen a hostel have).

crocodile in river
said resident crocodile

Through the hostel I booked a day trip to Chichen Itza, Valladolid and a cenote. At first, I didn’t like the tour as it was a lot of driving and started with a “shaman ceremony” where we were all led into a shop which felt like a tourist trap. However, one of the seven wonders of the world (Chichen Itza) was astounding, Valladolid very pretty and the cenote a cool and refreshing way to end the day. I would bring snacks as we had lunch at 11am and didn’t get back until 9pm with no stop for dinner.

girl standing in front of temple
one of the seven wonders of the world

Top tips for backpacker’s

The east coast of Mexico is very expensive and becoming more and more Americanised. This includes being expected to pay 20% tip minimum.

You often need to pay arriving and departure taxes. Sometimes these are included with airlines for others it’s not. Personally, I wasn’t charged my arrival fee when leaving (as I arrived from land) but others have been charged double.

This is why I think it’s worth spending longer in Mexico and travelling to cheaper and still popular destinations such as Mexico City, Oaxaca and Puerto Escondido.

Have both Mexican pesos and US dollars with you as some places only take one or the other.